Alien X Cam Review — Mammoth Climbing Guides

Racking up with the 6th generation Alien X in Joshua Tree, CA. Photo by Kyle Queener

Introduction - Camming units have come a long way since the early rigid-stemmed “friends” introduced in Yosemite by Ray Jardine. Now, there are many cams on the market, so which ones should we choose? I’ve been exploring different small cams (<1.3”) over the past couple of years after my go-to cam designs were either changed or discontinued. Recently, Fixe Hardware released their newest generation of Aliens cams, the Alien X. I decided to drop by the Bishop, CA shop, grab a full set, and head down to Joshua Tree to try some of the hardest finger cracks in the park.

Quick History - Alien Cams (originally manufactured by Colorado Custom Hardware) were the original small cam powerhouse, outperforming most other cams in Yosemite due to their ability to fit where others simply couldn’t. Their flexibility and narrow head width made them unbeatable in the Sierra granite and the desert sandstone of the Southwestern United States, where they gained their legendary status. Today, many cams follow the same design concepts, but the new Alien X from Fixe Hardware delivers that old-school reliable feel you may remember from the original units, now enhanced with modern upgrades.

The Gist - The Alien X feels fantastic in your hand and comes in the original five sizes (see chart below). The trigger action is spectacular in the larger sizes, and the thumb loop is ergonomic and comfortable. True to the original, they’ve maintained incredible flexibility in the stem, and it’s remarkably lightweight. The extendable sling helps shed a couple of alpine slings off your harness. The softer alloy of the cam lobes provides extra bite in your placements and adds peace of mind when you’re above your last piece. Additionally, you’ll now find that the yellow, gray, and red sizes can be placed passively with loads up to 5 kN.

What do I think? - The Alien X will find itself most at home with both free climbers and aid climbers, as they always have. I found them to perform just as well, if not better, than many of the other small cams I have on my rack. Their ability to sink into placements easily is a huge relief when you’re getting pumped and need to slam in that ‘thank God’ piece. I initially thought I wouldn’t like the extendable sling, but it turned out to be a significant plus. Extending pieces is simple with this design. My only gripe about these units is a bit of a catch-22: the soft alloy cam lobes. While they provide me with extra confidence when I’m above my last piece, I know they won’t last as long as some of the other cams on my rack. However, for me, it’s worth the shorter lifespan to feel warm and cozy knowing that the yellow Alien 15 feet below me probably isn’t going to blow out of some Sierra granite if I take the ride.

Kyle Queener climbing Acid Crack (5.12d) in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo by Connor Brown

Customer Service - In years past, I’ve heard some complaints about the customer service at Fixe Hardware, but I have never experienced this myself. I use Fixe Hardware for most of the hard and soft goods for my guide service and in my personal climbing kit. Stopping by the shop in Bishop, CA, is always a pleasure, and the staff are quick to set me up with whatever I’m looking for. I honestly couldn’t ask for better customer service.

Brass Tax - In my opinion, there isn’t one cam to rule them all. There are many cams out there, each with its own niches, strengths, and weaknesses. My advice is to develop a diverse rack of cams that will cover you in a wide range of scenarios or in the ones you find yourself in most often. Personally, as someone who prefers long and challenging free climbs, I look for cams that are lightweight and offer a wide range of sizes. For the past 15 years, my typical rack has included a single set of double-axle cams (like the Black Diamond C4 and Z4) and a single-axle counterpart (like the Alien X or the Metolius Master Cam). Currently, you can find me climbing on a set of Alien X cams, a set of BD Z4s for finger-sized pieces, and in the medium to large sizes, doubles of the BD C4 Ultralights from #1 to #3.

Do I think the Alien X cams deserve a place on your rack?

Absolutely.